Costume Society of America Meets in Salt Lake City to Celebrate 50 Years

duda • July 1, 2019

Costume Society of America kicked off our year-long celebration of our 50th Anniversary at the Annual Meeting and Symposium in Salt Lake City, Utah, from May 23 through 27, 2023. Our theme, “Crossroads of Dress & Adornment: Creativity, Culture, and Collaboration,” created the umbrella for a rich program of special presentations, concurrent sessions, off-site explorations, and workshops. Abstracts of this 49th Annual Meeting and Symposium can be downloaded here.

Before the conference began, CSA’s Angels spent a day at the Heritage Museum of Layton in Layton, Utah, processing over 200 clothing artifacts and partially completing the collections care process on many others. A dozen people took a pre-symposium trip to Park City, Utah, where they participated in a walking tour of the city and viewed the Thrift Style exhibit at the Park City Museum. Professional Development Workshops included a “Meet Your CSA Editor” session led by Ingrid Mida, Dress Editor, and Susan Wadsworth-Booth, Director of Kent State University Press, and featuring a video from e-News editor Madison Brito; a tenure guidelines conversation led by Leon Wiebers, CSA President Elect; and a Diversity, Equity, Accessibility, and Belonging Committee listening session led by Kelly Reddy-Best and Melissa Gamble, DEAB Committee Co-Chairs.


Our 50th Anniversary celebration kicked off with an opening reception on Wednesday evening, where attendees got down and funky in their favorite 70’s garb, including the 1970s, 1770s, and 2070s! This followed a ceremony at which this year’s winners of Grants, Projects, Awards, and Honors were announced. Abby Lillethun adds her name to those who have been honored as a Costume Society of America Fellow due to her significant contributions to the field of costume, and two honorees received the Mary D. Doering Guardian Honor, which pays tribute to individuals who recognize the values of artistic, historical, and socially significant objects of dress and appearance: Susan J. Jerome and Marie T. Schlag. Also given were the Adele Filene Student Presenter Grants, CSA Travel Research Grant, Stella Blum Student Research Grant, Small Museum Collection Care Grant, and the College and University Collection Care Grant, as well as the CSA Betty Kirke Excellence in Research Award, CSA Costume Design Award, Howard Vincent Kurtz Emerging Theatre Artist Award, Millia Davenport Publication Award, and the Richard Martin Exhibition Awards. A full list of winners can be found here.


On Thursday, attendees heard a fascinating discussion led by Shelly Foote with our Scholars’ Roundtable participants, Kelly Reddy-Best, Leon Wiebers, Adam MacPhàrlain, and Petra Slinkard, and a moving keynote presentation by Fleurette Estes and Joy Farley, two Diné (Navajo) sisters, in conversation with Lost Origins Gallery owner Jason Hamacher about the living legacy of Navajo clothing. In the afternoon, attendees visited the Fort Douglas Military Museum and the Utah Museum of Fine Arts.


Concurrent sessions throughout the symposium covered diverse topics such as science fiction costuming, dandy style, convict dress, Italian Renaissance portraiture, and the process of mounting uniforms. On Friday, Kevin Jones and Christina Johnson gave a fascinating presentation on their 2022 Millia Davenport Publication Award-winning publication, Sporting Fashion: Outdoor Girls 1800 to 1960. Design Exhibition and Poster presenters put together an incredible display, and attendees vied for silent auction purchases encouraged by competition from Howard Vincent Kurtz. On Saturday, Petra Slinkard spoke about the beautiful 2022 Richard Martin Exhibition Award-winning exhibition Made It | The Women Who Revolutionized Fashion at the Peabody Essex Museum, and the conference ended with a fascinating presentation by Marrisa Mitsuing and Kim Verrier, curators of Powwow! Ohcîwin the Origins, Red Deer Museum + Art Gallery, also a 2022 Martin award winner. Presentation recordings by Jones and Johnson, Slinkard, and Mitsuing and Verrier, as well as by 2021 CSA Stella Blum Student Research Grant Winner Lynda May Xepoleas about “Hodinöhsö:ni’ Women & Archival Erasures at the New York State Museum, 1909-1915,” will be available soon on the CSA’s members-only site. Additional 2023 symposium content will be seen on upcoming “As Seen at Symposium” webinars. Stay tuned for more information!


Throughout the symposium, Meet-and-Greets were held for Member-to-Member program participants and first-timers, students, and CSA Fellows, and President Lalon Alexander presided over a town hall meeting at which pre-submitted questions and inquiries from the floor were answered.


We extend our sincere appreciation to our sponsors: Silver Level, Bloomsbury Academic and Margaret’s Couture Cleaners; Bronze Level, DittoForm LLC Michigan; Angels Project, University Products, Talas, Gaylord Archival, and Archival Methods; Keynote, The BYU Charles Redd Center for Western Studies; and Design Exhibition, Mannequin Rental Co. Thanks also to our marketplace participants and advertisers: CSA Series at Kent State University Press, Edinburgh University Press, Fleurette Estes, and Kotah Bear Jewelry. Participants in this year’s fundraiser event were treated to a performance of The Prom and a behind-the-scenes tour of the costume shop at the Pioneer Theatre Company at the University of Utah. We are pleased to announce that this year’s Silent Auction raised over $4,000—thanks go to all those who donated and purchased items in support of this effort, and to our co-coordinators, Edie Sanford and La Beene. Attendees also showed their individual support through sponsorships. Bryce Canyon National Park Sponsors ($100) included Lalon Alexander, Theresa Alexander, June Burns Bove’, Jacqueline Field Roberts, Michaele Haynes, Elizabeth Herridge, Adam MacPhàrlain, Elise Yvonne Morin-Rousseau, Margaret Ordonez, and Susan Yanofsky. Arches National Park Sponsors ($50) included Heidi Cochran, Judi Dawainis, Susan Hannel, Gayle Strege, and Leon Wiebers. Canyonlands National Park Sponsors ($25) included Suzanne LeSar, Arlesa Shephard, and Jennifer Tracz. Capitol Reef National Park Sponsors ($10) included Margaret Geiss-Mooney, Nan Mutnick, Colleen Pokorny, and Sara Wilcox.


We would like to express our immense gratitude for the hard work of our fantastic local arrangements team, who had originally planned to hold the symposium in 2021 but worked through the postponement caused by the pandemic: Symposium Co-Chairs Vicki Berger and Heidi Cochran (who also serves as Vice President for Education & Programs and Southwestern Region Chair); Abstracts Co-Administrators Sheryl Farnan and Theresa Alexander; Abstracts Editor Michaele Haynes; Angels Project Coordinators Martha Grimm and Margaret Ordoñez; CSA Vice President for External Relations Karen DePauw; Design Exhibition Chair Susan Yanofsky; Evaluation Chair Sarah Mosher; First Time Attendees/Member-to-Member Program Chairs Anne Toewe, Sally Queen, and Vicki Berger; Fundraiser Event Co-chairs Dennis Wright and Molly Hartvigsen; Thursday Afternoon Tours Chair Molly Hartvigsen; CSA President and Marketplace Chair Lalon Alexander; Pre-Symposium Tour Co-coordinators La Beene, Heidi Cochran, and Vicki Berger; Silent Auction Co-chairs Edie Sanford and La Beene; and the at-large local arrangement team members Annette Becker, Suzanne LeSar, Melissa Clark, and Gina Love. Special thanks go to the more than 30 abstract reviewers who made our symposium possible.


We want to hear from you! Whether you attended this year’s symposium or not, please give us your thoughts by clicking here. Your feedback is valuable to us as we plan for the future.


Next Year’s Plans


CSA’s Mid-Atlantic Region will host the 50th Annual Meeting and National Symposium in Washington, D.C. from May 21 to 25, 2024. Look for more information coming soon!


Images top row left to right: Kelly Borrello enjoying the behind-the-scenes tour of the costume shop at the Pioneer Theatre Company; the Southwestern Region symposium team; Ingrid Mida takes a photograph of the Scholars’ Roundtable participants


Images bottom row left to right: Keynote presenters Jason Hamacher, Fleurette Estes, and Joy Farley; Margarette Joyner and Sally-Yu Leung; Howard Vincent Kurtz in the final moments of the silent auction; Gail Alterman, June Burns Bove’, and Newbold Richardson



By Kristen Zohn April 15, 2025
C ostume Society of America (CSA) is pleased to announce the recipients of its 2025 grants, projects, awards, and honors . "We are excited to celebrate this year’s awardees, honorees, and grant recipients. We could not do this without the dedication and effort of our committees,” says Colleen Pokorny, CSA Vice President for Awards and Honors. Patricia Edmonson, Vice President for Grants and Projects adds, “Our dedicated committee members and chairs have worked hard this year to give each submission the attention it deserves. I also want to thank members who applied for their efforts in the process and hope more continue to engage with us!” All awards, grants, and projects are funded through the generosity of donors to the CSA Endowment . Two Costume Society of America Fellows have been chosen this year to honor their significant contributions to the field of costume, including their work as editors of the organization’s publications: Christina Bates and Kelly L. Reddy-Best. Bates, costume historian and longtime curator at the Canadian Museum of History, has been the recipient of numerous CSA awards and honors, including the Scholar’s Roundtable Honor (2008), the Betty Kirke Excellence in Research Award (2023) and the Millia Davenport Publication Award (2013). Her most notable service to CSA was as Editor-in-Chief of Dress from 2014 to 2022. Reddy-Best is Morrill Professor in the Fashion Design and Merchandising program at Iowa State University, and starting July 2025, she will be Professor and Chair of Family and Consumer Sciences at Illinois State University. Her service to CSA includes guest editing the first special issue of Dress on LGBTQ+ fashions and developing and leading CSA’s first diversity committee. She has served as the editor for the Costume Society of America book series with Kent State University Press since 2023. In addition to this esteemed recognition, CSA annually celebrates its members by presenting a variety of awards to honor their accomplishments. For example, this year’s Betty Kirke Excellence in Research Award is given to Hilary Davidson for her research titled Digital Clothing Reconstruction as a Fashion History Methodology. The Millia Davenport Publication Award goes to Beyond Vanity: The History and Power of Hairdressing by Elizabeth L. Block. This year’s Mary D. Doering Guardian Honor goes to Megan Osborne, Collections Manager and Assistant Curator at the Avenir Museum of Design and Merchandising, Colorado State University. The Costume Design Award is given to Dennis Wright for his work on House of Desires at Brigham Young University and The Howard Vincent Kurtz Emerging Theatre Artist Award is given to Henry Cawood for the designs for Once Upon a Mattress at Stage West Theatre, Fort Worth, Texas. This year, three Richard Martin Exhibition Awards were given: Gilding Northeast Ohio: Fashion and Fortune, 1870-1900, curated by Brian Centrone for The Massillon Museum (large exhibition); Fashion After Dark, curated by Patty Edmonson at the Western Reserve Historical Society (small exhibition); and Harlem Noire: Fashion Movement, Moment, & Memory, curated by Dyese L. Matthews for Cornell University (student exhibition). The recipient of the new Creative Work Honor will be chosen at this year’s symposium in Los Angeles, and the Presidential Award Winner(s) will be announced, as well. As well as presenting honors and awards, CSA provides grant funding to support individuals and organizations within the field. These include theCSA Travel Research Grant , which has been given this year to Rachel Silberstein for her research International Diplomacy and Industrial Collecting: Charting Qing Dynasty Chinese Dress and Textile History in the Collections of National Museums Scotland. The 2025 Angels Project Grant is given to Flight Path Museum in Los Angeles. Two Adele Filene Student Presenter Grants go to LaDyra Lyte and Mfon-Abasi Obong. A full list of all of CSA’s grants, honors, and awards can be found below. They will be celebrated on Monday, June 2, 2025, during CSA’s 51 st Annual National Meeting and Symposium in Los Angeles . Costume Society of America Fellow Honor: Christina Bates, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada; Kelly L. Reddy-Best, Ames, Iowa Mary D. Doering Guardian Honor: Megan Osborne, Collections Manager and Assistant Curator, Avenir Museum of Design and Merchandising, Colorado State University CSA Creative Work Honor: to be determined CSA Costume Design Award: Dennis Wright, House of Desires , Brigham Young University CSA Richard Martin Exhibition Award, Large Exhibition: Gilding Northeast Ohio: Fashion and Fortune, 1870-1900 , Brian Centrone, The Massillon Museum, Ohio CSA Richard Martin Exhibition Award, Small Exhibition: Fashion After Dark , Patty Edmonson, Western Reserve Historical Society, Cleveland, Ohio CSA Richard Martin Exhibition Award, Student Exhibition: Harlem Noire: Fashion Movement, Moment, & Memory , Student Curator: Dyese L. Matthews, Faculty Advisors: Denise N. Green and Catherine Blumenkamp, Cornell University, Ithaca, New York Millia Davenport Publication Award: Beyond Vanity: The History and Power of Hairdressing by Elizabeth L. Block (The MIT Press) Millia Davenport Publication Honorable Mention: Shopping All the Way to the Woods: How the Outdoor Industry Sold Nature to America by Rachel S. Gross (Yale University Press) CSA Howard Vincent Kurtz Emerging Theatre Artist Award: Henry Cawood, Once Upon a Mattress , Stage West Theatre, Fort Worth, Texas Betty Kirke Excellence in Research Award: Hilary Davidson for her research titled Digital Clothing Reconstruction as a Fashion History Methodology Scholars’ Roundtable: From Zoom to Lectra: The Tools, Theories, and Technologies That Move Dress Forward ; Laura Camerlengo, Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco; Daniel Drak, Parsons School of Design; Alyssa Ridder, Metropolitan State University of Denver; and Dina Smith-Glaviana, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University CSA Travel Research Grant: Rachel Silberstein, International Diplomacy and Industrial Collecting: Charting Qing Dynasty Chinese Dress and Textile History in the Collections of National Museums Scotland College and University Collection Care Grant: Alabama A&M University, Huntsville, Alabama CSA Small Museum Collection Care Grant: Coastal Mississippi Mardis Gras Museum, Biloxi, Mississippi CSA Dependent Care Grant: Nadia Abdallah Adele Filene Student Presenter Grants: LaDyra Lyte, Louisiana State University; Mfon-Abasi Obong, Louisiana State University CSA Angels Project: Flight Path Museum, Los Angeles, California Presidential Award Winner(s): announcement forthcoming Pictured above from left to right: Detail of ensemble loaned by Lana Turner to the Richard Martin Exhibition Award winning exhibition H arlem Noire: Fashion Movement, Moment, & Memory , curated by Dyese Matthews (Parsons, The New School) at Cornell University (Photo by Ryan Issa for Cornell University, 2024); cover of Beyond Vanity: The History and Power of Hairdressing by Elizabeth L. Block (The MIT Press), recipient of the Millia Davenport Publication Award; “Final Costume 2 – Castano,” a costume for House of Desires at Brigham Young University by Dennis Wright, recipient of the CSA Costume Design Award.
March 28, 2025
This edition of Dialogues on Dress features Emily Stoehrer of MFA Boston. Sartorial story detective and pillar in the dress community, Stoehrer occupies the sole Senior Curator of Jewelry position at US fine arts museums. The history of dress and the future of fashion act in dialogue, always interfacing to inform our present moment. The Costume Society of America’s diverse members exemplify this reality like no other; through the constant connections across time and disciplines they draw, our membership of costume curators, designers, artists, and so much more embody fashion’s ubiquitous presence - and dress’ daily power to teach us all something new. We hope you will join us for CSA’s new Dialogues on Dress series, interviews now available monthly in our e-News and here on our website. Interested in getting in touch? Email enews@costumesocietyamerica.com
February 28, 2025
This edition of Dialogues on Dress features Cora Harrington. From her tenure as The Lingerie Addict to her return to studies at FIT's Fashion and Textiles program, Harrington exemplifies lifelong learning and passion for all the varied facets of fashion. The history of dress and the future of fashion act in dialogue, always interfacing to inform our present moment. The Costume Society of America’s diverse members exemplify this reality like no other; through the constant connections across time and disciplines they draw, our membership of costume curators, designers, artists, and so much more embody fashion’s ubiquitous presence - and dress’ daily power to teach us all something new. We hope you will join us for CSA’s new Dialogues on Dress series, interviews now available monthly in our e-News and website . Interested in getting in touch? Email enews@costumesocietyamerica.com
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