2023 Costume Society of America Grants, Projects, Awards, and Honors Announced

duda • July 3, 2023

Costume Society of America (CSA) is pleased to announce the recipients of its 2023 grants, projects, awards, and honors. “There was a phenomenal level of excellence among our nominees this year,” says Arlesa Shephard, CSA Vice President for Awards and Honors. Elise Rousseau, Vice President for Grants and Projects adds, “Thank you to all of the candidates who prepared such impressive application submissions. We encourage all our members to submit your future projects for consideration.” Shephard and Rousseau want to express their gratitude to all our committee chairs and members for volunteering their time and efforts so that we can recognize all these important achievements.


Abby Lillethun adds her name to those who have been honored as a Costume Society of America Fellow due to her significant contributions to the field of costume. Dr. Lillethun serves as chairperson of the Montclair State University Department of Art and Design where she is Professor of Fashion Cultures and Histories, and as one juror wrote, “her work in academia produces both new scholarship and future scholars. Her volunteer commitment to numerous boards and committees at both the regional and national level as well as her scholarly contributions to conferences and to Dress show commendable dedication to the mission and work of the Costume Society of America.”


This year, two honorees have received the Mary D. Doering Guardian Honor, which pays tribute to Doering and other guardians like her who recognize the values of artistic, historical, and socially significant objects of dress and appearance. Susan J. Jerome is Collections Manager at the University of Rhode Island Historic Textile and Costume Collection, and she also works as the Curator/Registrar of the Historic Costume Collection at the University of Connecticut. A juror remarked, “I’m inspired by her devotion to collections management, holistically embracing a role which includes curatorial, conservation, and registrarial duties, as well as sharing the collection with students and ensuring public access through the digital online database.” Textile conservator Marie T. Schlag is the Principal at the Studio for Textile Conservation in Scituate, Massachusetts. For many years she has been an integral part of the CSA Angels team, and her work in procuring donations of supplies and helping to run the event has immeasurably contributed to the success of the project.


This year’s Millia Davenport Publication Award goes to Frankie Welch’s Americana by Ashley Callahan (The University of Georgia Press), and the Betty Kirke Excellence in Research Award is given to Tina Bates for On the Margins: Convict Dress at the Kingston Penitentiary, 1890-1920. The Costume Design Award is given to Aly Amidei for her “Totally 80’s Shakespeare: Sitcom Inspired Costumes for The Merry Wives of Windsor” and The Howard Vincent Kurtz Emerging Theatre Artist Award is given to Mona Jahani, a student at Michigan State University, for her design, Monsieur d’Eon is a Woman. The two Richard Martin Exhibition Awards go to Parachute: Subversive Fashion of the ’80s at the McCord Stewart Museum and Uncut Attire: How Weaving Informs Wearables at the Center for Design and Material Culture at the University of Wisconsin-Madison.


In addition to honors and awards, CSA distributes grant money to a variety of individuals and organizations in the field. The CSA Stella Blum Student Research Grant assists the research of a current undergraduate or graduate student who is conducting original research in the field of North American costume. This year’s Blum Grant goes to Leigh Danielle Honeycutt Porche of Louisiana State University for her project Louisiana Cowgirls, Cowboys and Cowthems: Negotiating Gender, Race and Appearance on the Trail. The 2023 Angels Project Grant is given to Heritage Museum of Layton, a small historical museum in Layton, Utah. Two Adele Filene Student Presenter Grants go to Yee Lin Elaine Yuen of Kent State University and Colleen Pokorny of University of Minnesota. A full list of grants, honors, and awards, including honorable mentions and commendations, can be found below.


Grants, Projects, Honors, and Awards were celebrated on Wednesday, May 24, 2023, during CSA’s Annual National Meeting and Symposium in Salt Lake City, Utah.


Costume Society of America Fellow Honor: Abby Lillethun, Teaneck, New Jersey

Mary D. Doering Guardian Honor: Susan J. Jerome, Stonington, Connecticut; Marie T. Schlag, Scituate, Massachusetts

CSA Costume Design Award: Aly Amidei, The Merry Wives of Windsor

CSA Richard Martin Exhibition Award, Large Museum: Parachute: Subversive Fashion of the ’80s, Alexis Walker, McCord Stewart Museum, Montreal, Canada

CSA Richard Martin Exhibition Award, Small Museum: Uncut Attire: How Weaving Informs Wearables, Addison Nace, Center for Design and Material Culture at the University of Wisconsin-Madison; Commendation: Venus & Diana: Fashioning the Jazz Age, Clare Sauro, Robert and Penny Fox Historic Costume Collection at Drexel University

CSA Howard Vincent Kurtz Emerging Theatre Artist Award: Mona Jahani, Michigan State University, Monsieur d’Eon is a Woman

CSA Stella Blum Student Research Grant: Leigh Danielle Honeycutt Porche, Louisiana State University, Louisiana Cowgirls, Cowboys and Cowthems: Negotiating Gender, Race and Appearance on the Trail

CSA Travel Research Grant: Dr. Ingrid Mida, The Art and Fashion of the Vest

College and University Collection Care Grant: Pennsylvania State University School of Theatre Fashion Archive, University Park, Pennsylvania

CSA Small Museum Collection Care Grant: Gresham Historical Society, Gresham, Oregon

Millia Davenport Publication Award: Frankie Welch’s Americana by Ashley Callahan and LaDonna Harris (The University of Georgia Press); Honorable Mention: Patrick Kelly: Runway of Love by Laura L. Camerlengo and Dilys E. Blum (Yale University Press and the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco)

Adele Filene Student Presenter Grants: Yee Lin Elaine Yuen, Kent State University, Senbazuru’s Recall: One Thousand Cranes for Peace; Colleen Pokorny, University of Minnesota, Transforming Quilts into Garments: Designers’ Experiences with Upcycling

CSA Angels Project: Heritage Museum of Layton, Layton, Utah

Betty Kirke Excellence in Research Award: Tina Bates, On the Margins: Convict Dress at the Kingston Penitentiary, 1890-1920

Scholars’ Roundtable: Crossroads of Dress and Adornment: Creativity, Culture and Collaboration; Adam MacPhàrlain, Missouri Historical Society; Kelly Reddy-Best, Iowa State University; Petra Slinkard, Peabody Essex Museum; Leon Wiebers, Loyola Marymount University

President’s Awards: Howard Vincent Kurtz and Arlesa Shephard

 

Pictured above from left to right:

Image from On the Margins: Convict Dress at the Kingston Penitentiary, 1890-1920, the Betty Kirke Excellence in Research Award winning abstract by Tina Bates; Falstaff and Mistress Quickly, designs by Aly Amidei, The Merry Wives of Windsor, recipient of the CSA Costume Design Award; two Mapuche ponchos (makuñ) from Chile, installation image of Uncut Attire: How Weaving Informs Wearables, Addison Nace, Center for Design and Material Culture at the University of Wisconsin-Madison, recipient of a CSA Richard Martin Exhibition Award.



By Kristen Zohn April 15, 2025
C ostume Society of America (CSA) is pleased to announce the recipients of its 2025 grants, projects, awards, and honors . "We are excited to celebrate this year’s awardees, honorees, and grant recipients. We could not do this without the dedication and effort of our committees,” says Colleen Pokorny, CSA Vice President for Awards and Honors. Patricia Edmonson, Vice President for Grants and Projects adds, “Our dedicated committee members and chairs have worked hard this year to give each submission the attention it deserves. I also want to thank members who applied for their efforts in the process and hope more continue to engage with us!” All awards, grants, and projects are funded through the generosity of donors to the CSA Endowment . Two Costume Society of America Fellows have been chosen this year to honor their significant contributions to the field of costume, including their work as editors of the organization’s publications: Christina Bates and Kelly L. Reddy-Best. Bates, costume historian and longtime curator at the Canadian Museum of History, has been the recipient of numerous CSA awards and honors, including the Scholar’s Roundtable Honor (2008), the Betty Kirke Excellence in Research Award (2023) and the Millia Davenport Publication Award (2013). Her most notable service to CSA was as Editor-in-Chief of Dress from 2014 to 2022. Reddy-Best is Morrill Professor in the Fashion Design and Merchandising program at Iowa State University, and starting July 2025, she will be Professor and Chair of Family and Consumer Sciences at Illinois State University. Her service to CSA includes guest editing the first special issue of Dress on LGBTQ+ fashions and developing and leading CSA’s first diversity committee. She has served as the editor for the Costume Society of America book series with Kent State University Press since 2023. In addition to this esteemed recognition, CSA annually celebrates its members by presenting a variety of awards to honor their accomplishments. For example, this year’s Betty Kirke Excellence in Research Award is given to Hilary Davidson for her research titled Digital Clothing Reconstruction as a Fashion History Methodology. The Millia Davenport Publication Award goes to Beyond Vanity: The History and Power of Hairdressing by Elizabeth L. Block. This year’s Mary D. Doering Guardian Honor goes to Megan Osborne, Collections Manager and Assistant Curator at the Avenir Museum of Design and Merchandising, Colorado State University. The Costume Design Award is given to Dennis Wright for his work on House of Desires at Brigham Young University and The Howard Vincent Kurtz Emerging Theatre Artist Award is given to Henry Cawood for the designs for Once Upon a Mattress at Stage West Theatre, Fort Worth, Texas. This year, three Richard Martin Exhibition Awards were given: Gilding Northeast Ohio: Fashion and Fortune, 1870-1900, curated by Brian Centrone for The Massillon Museum (large exhibition); Fashion After Dark, curated by Patty Edmonson at the Western Reserve Historical Society (small exhibition); and Harlem Noire: Fashion Movement, Moment, & Memory, curated by Dyese L. Matthews for Cornell University (student exhibition). The recipient of the new Creative Work Honor will be chosen at this year’s symposium in Los Angeles, and the Presidential Award Winner(s) will be announced, as well. As well as presenting honors and awards, CSA provides grant funding to support individuals and organizations within the field. These include theCSA Travel Research Grant , which has been given this year to Rachel Silberstein for her research International Diplomacy and Industrial Collecting: Charting Qing Dynasty Chinese Dress and Textile History in the Collections of National Museums Scotland. The 2025 Angels Project Grant is given to Flight Path Museum in Los Angeles. Two Adele Filene Student Presenter Grants go to LaDyra Lyte and Mfon-Abasi Obong. A full list of all of CSA’s grants, honors, and awards can be found below. They will be celebrated on Monday, June 2, 2025, during CSA’s 51 st Annual National Meeting and Symposium in Los Angeles . Costume Society of America Fellow Honor: Christina Bates, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada; Kelly L. Reddy-Best, Ames, Iowa Mary D. Doering Guardian Honor: Megan Osborne, Collections Manager and Assistant Curator, Avenir Museum of Design and Merchandising, Colorado State University CSA Creative Work Honor: to be determined CSA Costume Design Award: Dennis Wright, House of Desires , Brigham Young University CSA Richard Martin Exhibition Award, Large Exhibition: Gilding Northeast Ohio: Fashion and Fortune, 1870-1900 , Brian Centrone, The Massillon Museum, Ohio CSA Richard Martin Exhibition Award, Small Exhibition: Fashion After Dark , Patty Edmonson, Western Reserve Historical Society, Cleveland, Ohio CSA Richard Martin Exhibition Award, Student Exhibition: Harlem Noire: Fashion Movement, Moment, & Memory , Student Curator: Dyese L. Matthews, Faculty Advisors: Denise N. Green and Catherine Blumenkamp, Cornell University, Ithaca, New York Millia Davenport Publication Award: Beyond Vanity: The History and Power of Hairdressing by Elizabeth L. Block (The MIT Press) Millia Davenport Publication Honorable Mention: Shopping All the Way to the Woods: How the Outdoor Industry Sold Nature to America by Rachel S. Gross (Yale University Press) CSA Howard Vincent Kurtz Emerging Theatre Artist Award: Henry Cawood, Once Upon a Mattress , Stage West Theatre, Fort Worth, Texas Betty Kirke Excellence in Research Award: Hilary Davidson for her research titled Digital Clothing Reconstruction as a Fashion History Methodology Scholars’ Roundtable: From Zoom to Lectra: The Tools, Theories, and Technologies That Move Dress Forward ; Laura Camerlengo, Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco; Daniel Drak, Parsons School of Design; Alyssa Ridder, Metropolitan State University of Denver; and Dina Smith-Glaviana, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University CSA Travel Research Grant: Rachel Silberstein, International Diplomacy and Industrial Collecting: Charting Qing Dynasty Chinese Dress and Textile History in the Collections of National Museums Scotland College and University Collection Care Grant: Alabama A&M University, Huntsville, Alabama CSA Small Museum Collection Care Grant: Coastal Mississippi Mardis Gras Museum, Biloxi, Mississippi CSA Dependent Care Grant: Nadia Abdallah Adele Filene Student Presenter Grants: LaDyra Lyte, Louisiana State University; Mfon-Abasi Obong, Louisiana State University CSA Angels Project: Flight Path Museum, Los Angeles, California Presidential Award Winner(s): announcement forthcoming Pictured above from left to right: Detail of ensemble loaned by Lana Turner to the Richard Martin Exhibition Award winning exhibition H arlem Noire: Fashion Movement, Moment, & Memory , curated by Dyese Matthews (Parsons, The New School) at Cornell University (Photo by Ryan Issa for Cornell University, 2024); cover of Beyond Vanity: The History and Power of Hairdressing by Elizabeth L. Block (The MIT Press), recipient of the Millia Davenport Publication Award; “Final Costume 2 – Castano,” a costume for House of Desires at Brigham Young University by Dennis Wright, recipient of the CSA Costume Design Award.
March 28, 2025
This edition of Dialogues on Dress features Emily Stoehrer of MFA Boston. Sartorial story detective and pillar in the dress community, Stoehrer occupies the sole Senior Curator of Jewelry position at US fine arts museums. The history of dress and the future of fashion act in dialogue, always interfacing to inform our present moment. The Costume Society of America’s diverse members exemplify this reality like no other; through the constant connections across time and disciplines they draw, our membership of costume curators, designers, artists, and so much more embody fashion’s ubiquitous presence - and dress’ daily power to teach us all something new. We hope you will join us for CSA’s new Dialogues on Dress series, interviews now available monthly in our e-News and here on our website. Interested in getting in touch? Email enews@costumesocietyamerica.com
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This edition of Dialogues on Dress features Cora Harrington. From her tenure as The Lingerie Addict to her return to studies at FIT's Fashion and Textiles program, Harrington exemplifies lifelong learning and passion for all the varied facets of fashion. The history of dress and the future of fashion act in dialogue, always interfacing to inform our present moment. The Costume Society of America’s diverse members exemplify this reality like no other; through the constant connections across time and disciplines they draw, our membership of costume curators, designers, artists, and so much more embody fashion’s ubiquitous presence - and dress’ daily power to teach us all something new. We hope you will join us for CSA’s new Dialogues on Dress series, interviews now available monthly in our e-News and website . Interested in getting in touch? Email enews@costumesocietyamerica.com
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