2023 Costume Society of America Grants, Projects, Awards, and Honors Announced

July 3, 2023

Costume Society of America (CSA) is pleased to announce the recipients of its 2023 grants, projects, awards, and honors. “There was a phenomenal level of excellence among our nominees this year,” says Arlesa Shephard, CSA Vice President for Awards and Honors. Elise Rousseau, Vice President for Grants and Projects adds, “Thank you to all of the candidates who prepared such impressive application submissions. We encourage all our members to submit your future projects for consideration.” Shephard and Rousseau want to express their gratitude to all our committee chairs and members for volunteering their time and efforts so that we can recognize all these important achievements.


Abby Lillethun adds her name to those who have been honored as a Costume Society of America Fellow due to her significant contributions to the field of costume. Dr. Lillethun serves as chairperson of the Montclair State University Department of Art and Design where she is Professor of Fashion Cultures and Histories, and as one juror wrote, “her work in academia produces both new scholarship and future scholars. Her volunteer commitment to numerous boards and committees at both the regional and national level as well as her scholarly contributions to conferences and to Dress show commendable dedication to the mission and work of the Costume Society of America.”


This year, two honorees have received the Mary D. Doering Guardian Honor, which pays tribute to Doering and other guardians like her who recognize the values of artistic, historical, and socially significant objects of dress and appearance. Susan J. Jerome is Collections Manager at the University of Rhode Island Historic Textile and Costume Collection, and she also works as the Curator/Registrar of the Historic Costume Collection at the University of Connecticut. A juror remarked, “I’m inspired by her devotion to collections management, holistically embracing a role which includes curatorial, conservation, and registrarial duties, as well as sharing the collection with students and ensuring public access through the digital online database.” Textile conservator Marie T. Schlag is the Principal at the Studio for Textile Conservation in Scituate, Massachusetts. For many years she has been an integral part of the CSA Angels team, and her work in procuring donations of supplies and helping to run the event has immeasurably contributed to the success of the project.


This year’s Millia Davenport Publication Award goes to Frankie Welch’s Americana by Ashley Callahan (The University of Georgia Press), and the Betty Kirke Excellence in Research Award is given to Tina Bates for On the Margins: Convict Dress at the Kingston Penitentiary, 1890-1920. The Costume Design Award is given to Aly Amidei for her “Totally 80’s Shakespeare: Sitcom Inspired Costumes for The Merry Wives of Windsor” and The Howard Vincent Kurtz Emerging Theatre Artist Award is given to Mona Jahani, a student at Michigan State University, for her design, Monsieur d’Eon is a Woman. The two Richard Martin Exhibition Awards go to Parachute: Subversive Fashion of the ’80s at the McCord Stewart Museum and Uncut Attire: How Weaving Informs Wearables at the Center for Design and Material Culture at the University of Wisconsin-Madison.


In addition to honors and awards, CSA distributes grant money to a variety of individuals and organizations in the field. The CSA Stella Blum Student Research Grant assists the research of a current undergraduate or graduate student who is conducting original research in the field of North American costume. This year’s Blum Grant goes to Leigh Danielle Honeycutt Porche of Louisiana State University for her project Louisiana Cowgirls, Cowboys and Cowthems: Negotiating Gender, Race and Appearance on the Trail. The 2023 Angels Project Grant is given to Heritage Museum of Layton, a small historical museum in Layton, Utah. Two Adele Filene Student Presenter Grants go to Yee Lin Elaine Yuen of Kent State University and Colleen Pokorny of University of Minnesota. A full list of grants, honors, and awards, including honorable mentions and commendations, can be found below.


Grants, Projects, Honors, and Awards were celebrated on Wednesday, May 24, 2023, during CSA’s Annual National Meeting and Symposium in Salt Lake City, Utah.


Costume Society of America Fellow Honor: Abby Lillethun, Teaneck, New Jersey

Mary D. Doering Guardian Honor: Susan J. Jerome, Stonington, Connecticut; Marie T. Schlag, Scituate, Massachusetts

CSA Costume Design Award: Aly Amidei, The Merry Wives of Windsor

CSA Richard Martin Exhibition Award, Large Museum: Parachute: Subversive Fashion of the ’80s, Alexis Walker, McCord Stewart Museum, Montreal, Canada

CSA Richard Martin Exhibition Award, Small Museum: Uncut Attire: How Weaving Informs Wearables, Addison Nace, Center for Design and Material Culture at the University of Wisconsin-Madison; Commendation: Venus & Diana: Fashioning the Jazz Age, Clare Sauro, Robert and Penny Fox Historic Costume Collection at Drexel University

CSA Howard Vincent Kurtz Emerging Theatre Artist Award: Mona Jahani, Michigan State University, Monsieur d’Eon is a Woman

CSA Stella Blum Student Research Grant: Leigh Danielle Honeycutt Porche, Louisiana State University, Louisiana Cowgirls, Cowboys and Cowthems: Negotiating Gender, Race and Appearance on the Trail

CSA Travel Research Grant: Dr. Ingrid Mida, The Art and Fashion of the Vest

College and University Collection Care Grant: Pennsylvania State University School of Theatre Fashion Archive, University Park, Pennsylvania

CSA Small Museum Collection Care Grant: Gresham Historical Society, Gresham, Oregon

Millia Davenport Publication Award: Frankie Welch’s Americana by Ashley Callahan and LaDonna Harris (The University of Georgia Press); Honorable Mention: Patrick Kelly: Runway of Love by Laura L. Camerlengo and Dilys E. Blum (Yale University Press and the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco)

Adele Filene Student Presenter Grants: Yee Lin Elaine Yuen, Kent State University, Senbazuru’s Recall: One Thousand Cranes for Peace; Colleen Pokorny, University of Minnesota, Transforming Quilts into Garments: Designers’ Experiences with Upcycling

CSA Angels Project: Heritage Museum of Layton, Layton, Utah

Betty Kirke Excellence in Research Award: Tina Bates, On the Margins: Convict Dress at the Kingston Penitentiary, 1890-1920

Scholars’ Roundtable: Crossroads of Dress and Adornment: Creativity, Culture and Collaboration; Adam MacPhàrlain, Missouri Historical Society; Kelly Reddy-Best, Iowa State University; Petra Slinkard, Peabody Essex Museum; Leon Wiebers, Loyola Marymount University

President’s Awards: Howard Vincent Kurtz and Arlesa Shephard

 

Pictured above from left to right:

Image from On the Margins: Convict Dress at the Kingston Penitentiary, 1890-1920, the Betty Kirke Excellence in Research Award winning abstract by Tina Bates; Falstaff and Mistress Quickly, designs by Aly Amidei, The Merry Wives of Windsor, recipient of the CSA Costume Design Award; two Mapuche ponchos (makuñ) from Chile, installation image of Uncut Attire: How Weaving Informs Wearables, Addison Nace, Center for Design and Material Culture at the University of Wisconsin-Madison, recipient of a CSA Richard Martin Exhibition Award.



By Kristen Zohn April 14, 2026
C ostume Society of America (CSA) is pleased to announce the recipients of its 2026 grants, projects, awards, and honors . "We are proud to recognize this year’s outstanding recipients whose work strengthens and advances the field of costume and dress studies. I am grateful to our committee members whose thoughtful, dedicated service makes it possible to honor and celebrate our colleagues,” says Colleen Pokorny, CSA Vice President for Awards and Honors. Nora Carleson, Vice President for Grants and Projects, adds: “I heartily thank the dedicated committee members and chairs who have volunteered their time and effort to give the many submissions for our grants and projects the attention they deserve. Likewise, thank you to all who applied this year. We know that the application process requires effort, time, and care, and we hope that you all continue to engage with CSA in the future.” All awards, grants, and projects are funded through the generosity of donors to the CSA Endowment . This year, CSA is honored to name Cynthia Cooper as the 2026 Costume Society of America Fellow. Cooper’s decades of leadership in Canadian dress history, her award‑winning exhibitions, and her extensive scholarship have shaped the field in profound ways. As noted in her nomination materials, colleagues praise her “world-class scholarship, and heartfelt dedication to our field and our organization” and her “quiet supportive brilliance which touches all those who are lucky enough to cross her path.” Cooper is also the recipient of the 2026 Millia Davenport Publication Award for Costume Balls: Dressing Up History, 1870–1927 , a richly researched and visually compelling volume accompanying her recent exhibition at the McCord Stewart Museum. CSA also proudly recognizes JLN Costume Mounting LLC, founded by Jennifer Nieling, with this year’s Entrepreneur Recognition Award. Nieling’s work exemplifies the essential role of costume mounting in exhibition practice, providing museums nationwide with specialized expertise that “brings costumes and accessories to life” while prioritizing conservation and interpretive clarity. This year’s awards also highlight CSA’s ongoing commitment to service through the 2026 Angels Project, which will take place on Sunday, May 31, at Historic Rosedale in Charlotte, North Carolina. Built in 1815 and one of the city’s oldest surviving homes, Historic Rosedale preserves the intertwined histories of the families who lived there and the enslaved and free African Americans connected to the site. CSA volunteers will assist with collections care and preservation while learning about the house, its holdings, and its historic grounds. All awardees, honorees, and grant recipients will be recognized on Monday evening, June 1, 2026, during CSA’s 52nd Annual National Meeting and Symposium in Charlotte, North Carolina. Costume Society of America Fellow Honor: Cynthia Cooper, Montreal, Quebec, Canada CSA Creative Work Honor: to be determined CSA Costume Design Award: Lorena Lopez, The Busy Bee’s Great Adventure , Adrienne Arsht Center for the Performing Arts, Miami, Florida CSA Richard Martin Exhibition Award, Large Exhibition: Superfine: Tailoring Black Style , The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Exhibition Team: Monica L. Miller, Andrew Bolton, Amanda Garfinkel, and William DeGregorio CSA Richard Martin Exhibition Award, Small Exhibition: The Life of Kid’s Clothes , Missouri Historical Society, Exhibition Team: Adam MacPhàrlain, Abigail Sarver-Verhey, and Magdelene Linck CSA Richard Martin Exhibition Award, Student-led Exhibition: The Making of Barkcloth: Place, Gender, and Trans-Local Community , Cornell University, Student Curator: Iris Yiqun Luo, Advisors: Catherine Kueffer Blumenkamp, and Denise Nicole Green Millia Davenport Publication Award: Costume Balls: Dressing Up History, 1870-1927 by Cynthia Cooper (published by the McCord Stewart Museum, Montreal, Quebec, Canada) CSA Entrepreneur Recognition Award: JLN Costume Mounting LLC, Jennifer Nieling CSA Howard Vincent Kurtz Emerging Theatre Artist Award: Isabel Toteda, 12 Angry Jurors , University of California, Irvine Betty Kirke Excellence in Research Award: Anika Kozlowski for Creative Work titled Re-Assembled: The Paper Doll Coat — A Modular No-Sew Coat from Textile Waste Scholars’ Roundtable: Generational Practices: Approaches to Sustainability Across the Dress Discipline ; Jennifer Harmon, University of Wyoming; Sara Idacavage, Southern Methodist University; Katie Baker Jones, West Virginia University; Katrina Orsini, The GW Museum and The Textile Museum CSA Travel Research Grant: Mary Alice Casto, Accessible and Exclusive: The Home Seamstress and Vogue Couturier and Paris Originals Patterns, 1932-1965 , and Daniel James Cole, Dayak by Design: Transformations to Tradition in Western Borneo College and University Collection Care Grant: Johnson County Community College, Overland Park, Kansas CSA Small Museum Collection Care Grant: Park-McCullough House, North Bennington, Vermont CSA Dependent Care Grant: Danielle Hodgins Adele Filene Student Presenter Grants: Olivia Nash, University of Alberta, and Mansoureh (Sophie) Nikookar, University of Minnesota CSA Angels Project: Historic Rosedale, Charlotte, North Carolina Presidential Award Winner(s): announcement forthcoming Pictured above from left to right: Interior pages from the Millia Davenport Publication Award Winner Costume Balls: Dressing Up History, 1870-1927 by newly honored Fellow Cynthia Cooper (Laura Dumitriu © Musée McCord Stewart Museum); Custom mounts by JLN Costume Mounting LLC for Forces for Change: Mary McLeod Bethune and Black Women’s Activism at the National Museum of African American History and Culture; objects at Angels Project site Historic Rosedale in Charlotte, North Carolina
March 29, 2026
This month we spoke with Marie-Claire Bozant, photographer and fashion collector. The history of dress and the future of fashion act in dialogue, always interfacing to inform our present moment. The Costume Society of America’s diverse members exemplify this reality like no other; through the constant connections across time and disciplines they draw, our membership of costume curators, designers, artists, and so much more embody fashion’s ubiquitous presence—and dress’s daily power to teach us all something new. We hope you will join us for CSA’s new Dialogues on Dress series, interviews now available monthly in our e-News and here on our website. Interested in getting in touch? Email enews@costumesocietyamerica.com
February 27, 2026
This month we spoke with Lillia Whittington, a maker, researcher, and educator whose sewing-centered practice explores creativity, connection, and the joyful, human energy of the clothes we wear. The history of dress and the future of fashion act in dialogue, always interfacing to inform our present moment. The Costume Society of America’s diverse members exemplify this reality like no other; through the constant connections across time and disciplines they draw, our membership of costume curators, designers, artists, and so much more embody fashion’s ubiquitous presence - and dress’s daily power to teach us all something new. We hope you will join us for CSA’s new Dialogues on Dress series, interviews now available monthly in our e-News and here on our website. Interested in getting in touch? Email enews@costumesocietyamerica.com
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